by Rob Balon

The word tintinnio in Italian describes the pleasant sound that two champagne glasses make when they are brought together in a toast. It is also the name of a new restaurant at Research and Burnet [at the site of the former Iron Chef] that has both intrigued and fascinated me with dishes that, in an homage to the best traditions of Italian cooking, are not laden with an abundance of ingredients, yet provide authentic and wonderful flavors.

Believe me, while the prices are very affordable, this is not your average strip mall restaurant. The interior is striking and sets a subtle and inviting mood. And Chef Justin, who last made sauces at the outstanding and unfortunate Demi Epicurious, has got the kitchen humming with his passion and creativity.

The Calamari is an excellent place to start. Crisp, perfectly fried morsels of squid await those who order this dish. And usually, I am inclined to grouse about restaurants, like Tintinnio, which don’t provide an aoli sauce for dipping along with the marinara. But their marinara sauce, a smoky, mellow, savory delight, rests on its own merits. Try the calamari.

The Bruschetta is equally good. The key to this dish, in my opinion, is the texture and taste of the bread. Tintinnio’s garlic bread is perfectly grilled and piled high with chopped roma and cherry tomatoes. The roasted red peppers add a nice touch.

Another very interesting and novel dish is the Suppli. They begin with an appropriately al dente risotto and form it into little balls stuffed with mozzarella and fontina cheese. The balls are fried and served with a light and spicy marinara. The result is quite compelling. You must also sample the Caesar Salad. Begin with chopped hearts of romaine lettuce and herbed croutons and add a delicious roasted garlic dressing. Quite nice.

No Italian restaurant worth its olive oil would be complete without excellent pasta dishes, and Tintinnio has an abundance of them. My favorite is the Pesante. Chef Justin’s background as a saucier is most evident here. The dish features corkscrew macaroni tossed with pancetta, wild boar sausage, luscious cherry tomatoes and spinach in a savory light cream sauce with a chicken broth base. I was knocked out the first time I tried this.

The Pappardelle is another stellar choice. The roasted portabello mushrooms and onions served with grilled vegetables in a classic rosemary pommarola sauce. The key to this sauce is the fresh tomatoes, never canned. And the pappardelle pasta is a blast.

You also have to try the Asparagus Risotto. The chef uses carnaroli rice for this dish and it’s mixed with asparagus tips, rosemary skewered shrimp, and a sweet gorgonzola. Again, simple, intriguing and very tasty. Another amazing dish on the comfort side is the wonderful baked macaroni and cheese. Last time in, we ordered some just to take home and have for lunch the next day.

On the seafood side, try the Venetian Sole. This is a show stopper; a breaded and fried filet of sole done in lemon butter and served with a fulsome orzo ragu and grilled vegetables. Again, the light touch is in evidence here, and the dish just sparkles.

Tintinnio opened just recently, and had some initial growing pains with service. But those problems are resolved and the place is moving forward on all cylinders. Again, it’s at Burnet and Research. And if you listen closely, you can almost hear that lovely, lyrical sound, the tintinnio of champagne or wine glasses. It’s a happy sound—and you will be seriously happy when you try this restaurant.

TinTinNio
9070 Research Blvd., Ste. #101
(512) 275-1206

Mon-Thu 11am-10pm
Fri-Sat 11am-10:30pm
Sun noon-9pm

–From the September 2004 Austin Review