by Rob Balon

In Austin’s uncertain local economy, expansion of a business has not always proven to be the most prudent of actions. However, in the case of Dona Emilia’s Colombian restaurant, the action was not only prudent but darn near providential. I first discovered Dona Emilia’s when it was a seven-table gem over on East 7th Street. Their recent move to much larger quarters on San Jacinto at Caesar Chavez, across from the Four Seasons, simply means their stellar cuisine is now more readily available to hungry diners. And that’s good news.

Dona Emilia’s was founded in 2001 [not the best year to start a restaurant] by Emilia Hurtado and her son Ruben Cuero. But good food usually prevails and the little restaurant simply outgrew its modest dimensions. The investor Howard Kells signed on and Dona Emilia’s made the move downtown. The fare is Colombian but also embraces other South American styles as well. All I can say is: “wow!”

The appetizers at Dona Emilia’s are indicative of the restaurant’s versatility and quality. I love the Picada, a sampling dish of grilled chicken, pork, beef, and sausage replete with Andean potatoes and plantain chips. Another serious recommendation is the Papas Rellenas, which start as mashed potatoes formed into little balls, stuffed with a very pleasantly seasoned ground beef, and then deep fried. Muy delicioso! And the Empanadas, the classic south American favorite which had their origins in England, are delightful crescent-shaped turnovers filled with meat and potatoes, shredded chicken, or cheese. And finally, try the Ceviche Del Dia, which features seafood marinated in cilantro and lime juice. This has at the first bite a mellow yet distinct flavor. I found it very satisfying.

The first entrée I ever tried at Dona Emilia’s was the Arroz Con Pollo, or chicken with rice. A simple Colombian dish, it features saffron rice with green beans, carrots and green peas, atop which sits shredded chicken. Add a little Colombian hot sauce and voila! I really like the intriguing flavor and textures of this entrée. Also try the Bandeja Paisa, which artfully blends grilled steak, bacon, fried egg, red beans, sweet plantains, and white rice along with a sinfully good arepa. Like the Arroz con Pollo, this is a very traditional and tasty dish.

But Dona Emilia’s also embraces the new Latin flavors. You have to try the Lomo De Cerdo a la Parilla. This is an exquisitely tender grilled pork loin that is laden with flavor and served with a mohito chimichurri sauce. A must try. As is the Churrasco, a grilled tenderloin steak. For you lovers of carne, this dish will elevate the bar a notch or two.

And on the seafood side, I am smitten with the Mariscada, a stew of shrimp, scallops, lobsters and clams in a lovely salsa roja with onions and peppers. And try some of their ethereal tropical juices. I’m very partial to the Blackberry and the Passion Fruit. But there’s a wide variety.

As is unfortunately common in Austin with most new operations, I’ve seen a service glitch or two at Dona Emilia’s. But the quality of the food outweighs any failings in the service arena. And with Ruben and Dona Emilia and chef Alejandro Sanchez stirring things up, I’ll certainly be back

Dona Emilia’s
101 San Jacinto Blvd.
(512) 478-2520
Mon-Thu 11am-2:30pm & 5pm-10pm
Fri & Sat 11am-11pm
Sun noon-6pm
http://www.donaemilias.com

–From the August 2004 Austin Review