by Rob Balon

When it comes to down home cooking with a dash of soul food thrown in, Hoover Alexander is to Austin cuisine what Wolfgang Puck is to Los Angeles, or what Bobby Flay is to New York, or Emeril Lagasse to New Orleans. He is the man. Welcome to Hoover’s Cooking on Manor Road.

Hoover Alexander’s culinary chops are legitimate. From the early Cajun days on 6th Street to the triumph of the legendary Good Eats [which ironically wasn’t so good after Hoover left], he’s left his mark on Austin dining with an array of authentic and eminently tasty chow.

I always like to begin with the Aus Tex wings. These are spicy, tender, and messy as hell but absolutely terrific. They are among the tastiest wings in a city that prides itself on them. The Spinach Artichoke Dip is also really worth trying. It’s got a wonderfully mellow flavor and a perfect consistency.

Hoover’s queso is also a blast. It’s a little on the smoky side but has a very nice flavor. It’s perfect for dipping and tasting. And don’t forget to try the Smoked Chicken Caesar salad. I love the dressing and the homemade croutons along with the tender smoked chicken breast. For the lunch crowd, this could be a meal in itself.

But the real appeal of Hoover’s lies in his epic southern-style dishes. The Chicken-Fried Steak would meet any southerner’s approval. It’s tender and delicious and each steak is hand breaded. Another people pleaser is the comfort-inducing Meatloaf. In Hoover’s hands, this dish is elevated to a much higher plateau. It’s got a little zing to it from the onions, bell peppers, and spices, but it’s a delight. Get the mashed potatoes to go along with the cream gravy. And you must try my favorite, the southern Fried Pork chops. I’ve had them breaded, non-breaded, and smothered. And I think I’m most partial to the smothered version. Wow. I’m talking quintessential comfort food here. And you’ve got to order Hoover’s hand-rubbed Pork Ribs along with a side of sausage from Southside market in Elgin. The ribs are amazingly tender, but like most of Hoover’s fare, with a little back bite.

No southern restaurant would be caught dead without catfish. And Hoover’s is worth your attention. I love the Charbroiled Catfish with lemon-wine sauce and some Cajun spice.

And I would be remiss if I did not mention Hoover’s sides. The macaroni and cheese is a blast, kicked up with a bit of sour cream. The Okra is very good and the Garlic cheese grits are stunning. And there’s pie and cobbler fresh every day, all with that distinctive homemade taste.

And now, Hoover’s is open for breakfast on the weekends. You want to talk abundance? How about the corn meal pancakes, or the amazingly buttery etouffe, or sausage and biscuits. You’ve gotta try it.

Hoover’s Cooking is on Manor Road, about a mile east of I-35. Take the manor road exit. Bring your friends, and bring an appetite. Because when Hoover is in the kitchen, the feed is on!

Hoover’s Cooking
2002 Manor Rd
(512) 479-5006
Mon-Fri 11am-10pm
Sat-Sun 9am-10pm
www.hooverscooking.com

–From the July 2004 Austin Review